Sunday, September 28, 2008

Daytripping with Bachan to Aonodōmon and Rakanji Temple.

Another month, another day trip with Granma and the fam.

Bachan readies her hat - one of many - for the day's adventures.
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Headed over to Aonodōmon (青の洞門 ao no dōmon; meaning "blue tunnel") in Nakatsu, Oita...
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Via the mighty Wikipedia - Aonodōmon:
"...is a tourist attraction located in the former Yabakei town, now part of Nakatsu City, in Ōita Prefecture, Japan.

Legend has it that before the tunnel was built, people had to climb over the cliffs through which the tunnel is built to reach an important local shrine. The path was very dangerous and people regularly fell to their deaths. During the Edo period, a Buddhist monk named Zenkai, who had committed a murder in his earlier life, decided to build a a safe passage for worshipers in order to atone for his crime. Beginning at the age of 49, he dedicated 30 years of his life to digging the 185 metre tunnel by hand, using only a hammer and chisel."

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I'd actually read the story of chipping out the tunnel years ago, maybe in Zen Flesh, Zen Bones, which I'm pretty sure is the volume I read... Anyways, here's the tale, reproduced in full -
Zenkai, the son of a samurai, journeyed to Edo and there became the retainer of a high official. He fell in love with the official’s wife and was discovered. In self-defence, he slew the official. Then he ran away with the wife.

Both of them later became thieves. But the woman was so greedy that Zenkai grew disgusted. Finally, leaving her, he journeyed far away to the province of Buzen, where he became a wandering mendicant.

To atone for his past, Zenkai resolved to accomplish some good deed in his lifetime. Knowing of a dangerous road over a cliff that had caused death and injury to many persons, he resolved to cut a tunnel through the mountain there.

Begging food in the daytime, Zenkai worked at night digging his tunnel. When thirty years had gone by, the tunnel was 2,280 feet long, 20 feet high, and 30 feet wide.

Two years before the work was completed, the son of the official he had slain, who was a skillful swordsman, found Zenkai out and came to kill him in revenge.

“I will gived you my life willingly,” said Zenkai. “Only let me finish this work. On the day it is completed, then you may kill me.”

So the son awaited the day. Several months passed and Zenkai kept digging. The son grew tired of doing nothing and began to help with the digging. After he had helped for more than a year, he came to admire Zenkai’s strong will and character.

At last the tunnel was completed and the people could use it and travel safely.

“Now cut off my head,” said Zenkai. “My work is done.”

“How can I cut off my own teacher’s head?” asked the younger man with tears in his eyes.

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Sandy disappears down the tunnel...
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I am a dork.
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But so is my wife.
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Now I'm up 2-1. [Also, little known fact... I, not Atlas, hold the world up.]
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We're awesome. That is all.
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Sandy ties it up 2-2.
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Prepare to feed the fish...
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...Execute!
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Fish go nuts. Mission accomplished.
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You can never have too many towels in Japan. Seriously.
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There is nothing Japan cannot turn into a super cute kawaii design. Zen monk doing 30 years of Buddhist atonement? Nothing to it. It is cool though.
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Japan is brilliant. Frogs!!!
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Bachan takes pictures with everyyyyything.
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The lower half of the pic you can see the tunnel cut through the mountain. Really quite impressive.
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Bachan will do anything for a picture.
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Obligatory mid-day Bachan's bring along bento lunch.
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Folks were feeding the fish by the river. They were going nuts.
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On to Rakanji Temple, home of 3700 stone Buddhas. But the cool thing is that going up to the temple you can take a ski lift type thing. Which was awesome.
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My favorite bit - check out the chairs... no belts, no safety measures, and the chairs never actually stop, you jump on mid-ride. Brilliant. And would never fly in the litigiousness of modern day America. Japan does not concern itself with such things.
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Warning: Don't try this at home. I am a professional tourist.
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I love my shoes. Though having worn the hell out of my Vibram Fivefingers the last month, I think I'm gonna need a size up. Oh well, chance to upgrade. Great shoes though.
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At the entrance to the temple.
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Awwww....
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This next pic is, supposedly, the baby of a demon. I'd love to know the real story.
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Yes, this appears to be a dragon/lion/fish. You figure it out, I'm a foreigner.
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Some of the 3700 Buddhas.
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They said this looked like Takeshi ojisan. I say it looks like a young Jichan.
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82 years old, still kicking ass.
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Pay no attention to the look of strain on my face. I am becoming fit.
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The top of the lift. Awesome view.
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Me, reliving every Batman/Tarzan fantasy I've had since I was 5.
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More pics here:
2008-09-27

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